The amount of water an orchid requires varies among the different species. It is important therefore, to research your particular plant to determine just how much water it needs to thrive.  And it is also very helpful to understand orchids in general and their origins. And like Goldilocks, don’t go to extremes; not too much; not too little. Just right!

Orchid plants are naturally found in tropical areas around the globe. These tropical areas generally receive a tremendous amount of rain.  It can also be very humid in an orchid’s native habitats.  Actually, the ideal humidity level for most orchid plants is between 75% and 80%.

Considering how uncomfortable human beings would be in a room that is kept at 80% humidity, you need to employ other tactics to keep your orchids happy and healthy.  One way to provide a high humidity for your orchids without sweltering yourself is to water your orchids so that they have a constant supply.

Three simple steps to follow

First, place your orchid in a deep saucer containing some pebbles.  Then set your orchid pot on top of the pebbles; then water the pebbles.  Keep the water level below the bottom of the pot. Do not allow the water to touch the orchid pot (so as not to rot the roots).  This establishes an artificial high-humidity climate around your orchids.

Second, make sure you don’t over water your orchids.  Some orchid enthusiasts assume that when the potting material (generally bark) looks dry, the plant needs to be watered. Not so; not when it comes to orchids.  Although the potting bark may appear dry, the bark itself holds moisture.

Third, you’ll soon discover that you really only have to water your orchid plant once a week or once every other week. And do it sparingly.  The best thing you can do is to let the potting bark dry out completely in between watering orchids you grow in your home.

Remember: some species of orchids grow on the trunks and branches of trees. So it is very normal for their roots to dry out before they receive water again.

Also consider that your orchids need to be fed (or fertilized) sparingly as well.  Create a good routine for watering and fertilizing orchids and you will build yourself a guarantee that you will enjoy these exotic plants for a long time.

Establish an environment for your orchids in which they can thrive. This includes giving them proper care: the right amount of potting bark; the proper amount of light; the right amount of water; and regular feeding with the right fertilizer. By understanding how to care for your orchids properly, you will find they are not difficult to grow. In fact they’re just about as easy to grow and care for as they are to enjoy.

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About the Author:
Patianna is a successful entrepreneur with a passion for orchids. An orchid enthusiast for much of her adult life, her goal is to erase the mythological barriers that would hold you back from growing and enjoying orchids in your home or garden because you may think caring for these beautiful plants is too difficult.
 
Get more great information on watering orchids visit Growing Orchids 1-2-3 and be sure to check out the expert orchid care ebook, “Growing Orchids – Easy as 1-2-3.”
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After experimenting for years and consulting friends and other experts the biggest contributing factor to successfully growing roses from cuttings is when to take the cutting from the host plant.

The host plant needs to be just ready to bloom, healthy looking and disease and pest free. The reason why the timing is so important is that, like any other living creature, it has different cycles of growth. A rose will grow roots better when it’s just trying to open its buds. To test this accurately you need to try the rose’s thorns for resistance,

gently push the thorn to its side, if it resists and could easily puncture your skin it won’t root well, if the thorn bends easily this is also not ideal. If the thorn suddenly gives way with a slight pop under a small amount of force it’s at just the right stage to root most successfully.

Now you need to prepare the cutting and its new temporary environment. Use a black plastic container of 4 inches; this will help retain heat and moisture best. Use a potting mix, the different combinations are many, I am blessed with great soil so I only use my own soil with perlite to provide extra drainage, others will use as much as two thirds compost. If you know you have great soil the less additional fertilizer or compost you use the better as the rose will end up a hardier plant and less dependant on supplements.

Fill the container two thirds full, place the cut end of the cutting in the middle and gently fill the container with the rest of the mix whilst standing the cutting upright. Please beware this stage needs delicate handling, the part of the cutting that is responsible for growing secondary roots is called the cambium. It is located between the food and fluid conducting layers of the plant, exposed at the cut end and therefore can be easily damaged so do not just force the cutting in the soil to make the hole.

Now you need to create a greenhouse effect around the cutting, use a plastic bag or plastic bottle, as long as it retains heat and moisture it’s ideal. Mist every couple of days or when the cutting looks dry, this will help it retain water as without any roots it can’t suck any up on its own yet.

Place in bright but shaded sunlight for about two to three weeks, then remove the, ‘greenhouse’. Continue misting regularly for another week, when the roots start growing through the holes ion the bottom it ready to be transferred to its permanent home.

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About the Author:
I’m Mary Longbridge and I’ve been caring for all kinds of roses for longer than my vanity will allow me to admit. To learn more very effective methods about growing roses from cuttings and more; visit http://www.rosestogrow.com. I am a contributing writer and on the website I will be happy to share my knowledge with you
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Compost is a wonderful recycler whereby living organisms are reprocessed and become food for new life. Good compost can be purchased from nurseries or soil merchants, but DIY compost is definitely cheapest, and for the organic gardener it’s obviously the best.

Starting compost is simply a matter of collecting your kitchen scraps, gathering them into either a compost heap or a compost bin, and letting nature take its course.

But is that really all there is to it?

Well, no. Sometimes the simplest composting methods produce the best results, but unless the conditions are just right your mixture will not turn into the dynamic mass of bacteria, enzymes and fungi necessary to break down plant fibre and turn it into good, friable soil.

There are many different composting methods and these will vary according factors such as climate, situation, and even a particular gardener’s philosophy. But these methods really only fall into two main groups:

Anaerobic compost
Aerobic compost

Anaerobic compost is created in closed containers such as spinning compost drums, composting trenches, sealed pits and garbage bags.

The closed bin retains nitrogen and carbon more efficiently than an open compost heap, but the mixture tends to be more acidic. When you open your composting container the mixture will often be very smelly. If this is the case it’s quite okay. It simply means the compost isn’t ready yet, so leave it a while longer to let the magic happen.

Anaerobic composting is much slower than other methods as the mixture is cooler and will therefore take longer to break down. If you decide to go this way the best time to begin is summer when the heat will speed up the process and your compost will be available more quickly.

Tip: If you have no suitable container, simply leave your vegetable scraps in a black plastic bag in the sun.

Aerobic compost needs air to help it along. Any compost pile or bin without a lid would fall into the aerobic category. When you first create the heap you should add layers of wet and dry material, and then turn it regularly to allow the air to penetrate.

Positioning

Compost needs moisture, heat and oxygen. Keep the compost pile in a spot where you can easily add water if it begins to dry out. The mix should be moist, never too dry or too soggy. The ideal spot to build your compost heap is under a tree where the sun will break through at intervals. Too much sun will dry the heap but too little will keep it wet and soggy.

Making it happen faster

Shredded compost materials break down faster than those left in large pieces, so chop up kitchen scraps and break up any large garden cuttings etc. with a spade or a shredding machine.

You can buy commercial compost activators if you’re really desperate to get the process going, but there are also a few natural additives to help the micro-organisms do their job.

These include:

Layers of comfrey leaves to speed up decomposition and add nutrients.
Chamomile flowers, another natural additive said to speed things up.
Yarrow, also said to help things along.

To increase the nitrogen content, add dry chicken manure or fresh grass clippings. Turn the heap as often as possible to give it extra air.

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About the Author:
Janet Hall likes to promote organic gardening as a way of life. She believes that anyone can grow a good supply of food even with limited space. Visit her site to get started building your own organic garden, or take the free mini-course at Organic Garden Guide to learn more and discover many great resources.
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