The amount is 4 to 5 milligrams per bulb. That amount of mercury is about the size of the period at the end of this sentence; in other words, not much. I’m sure most people are familiar with old home thermometers, the ones that used rising mercury to indicate temperature. Old mercury thermometers like that contained around 500 milligrams, over a hundred times more than any compact fluorescent light bulb. Where was the hubbub back then? You’d have to break over a hundred compact fluorescents and dump them all in the same tiny pile to even get close to being even with an old mercury thermometer break.

We know how much mercury a compact fluorescent light bulb contains, but what about mercury emissions produced from powering light bulbs? In the US, about half the population receives power from coal-burning power plants. Mercury is released into the air when coal is burned, so it matters how much energy is required to power the bulb. Keeping a home garden running smoothly and growing well requires more light bulbs than just lighting a room, so it’s important to consider the impact of the energy use.

The amount released is cumulative; the more power produced, the more mercury goes out. Incandescent light bulbs then, requiring far more energy than compact fluorescent light bulbs, cause comparatively large amounts of mercury emissions to be produced. Consider that a compact fluorescent light bulb lasts 7500 hours (this is a conservative estimate; in fair conditions, they can last over 10,000 hours). Mercury emissions to power a 20 watt CFL for 7500 hours would be around 3.51mg. Now, replace the 20 watt CFL with a 75 watt incandescent and power it and its replacements for 7500 hours. This would create 13.16 mg of mercury emissions. Even if the compact fluorescent broke at any point and the mercury got out, there would still be more mercury released into the environment from incandescent light bulbs.

When it’s put into perspective like that, the mercury in compact fluorescent light bulbs seems far less dire, and the case for using CFLs in gardening grows even stronger. Any place powered by coal will produce less mercury if CFLs are used instead of incandescent light bulbs; that’s over half the US. Couple that with all the other reasons to use compact fluorescents in gardening and you’ve got a clear choice: compact fluorescent light bulbs for your garden.

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About the Author:
Written by Blair E. and originally submitted to ArticlesBase.com.
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Grocery store fruits are great, but you must consume them quickly before they spoil.  Since the stores are looking out for their own profits, they do not always purchase fresh, local fruits.  More often than not, the fruits you find at the store are making their way into your refrigerator all the way from Mexico or beyond.  They will likely still taste great, but after such a long journey, their life in your hands is cut way short.  When you allow yourself the opportunity to watch fruit plant grow and mature, you have the luxury of knowing exactly when they ripen and for how long their fruits are good.  

Fruit is expensive too.  After such a long import process, the cost just continues to rise.  In addition to the import, farmers around the world are facing heavy taxation for their goods and consequently must charge a lot more to the stores.  These fees trickle right down to the consumer.  And while many people would like to support their local farmers, the costs for their products can be astronomical.  It is easy to understand why when you see their small operations and what they are taxed for their land, but it makes it difficult for the average family to afford their products.  

Berries tend to be the highest priced fruit of them all.  They are generally grown on a smaller scale and are more difficult to produce and harvest than larger fruits.  Planting a blackberry plant or growing your own strawberries is a great way to save on these costs.  It may seem like a lot of work, but it is actually quite easy to maintain a successful fruit garden.  The availability of seeds and plants is astounding.  You can find them in any nursery or even purchase them over the Internet.  It is even possible to go online and purchase a blackberry plant that is ready to go right into your garden.

There are many reasons to begin your fruit garden.  Of course, there are the obvious health benefits.  You can keep your family healthy and energized with a proper amount of fruit in their diet.  The financial benefits are not too shabby either.  By growing your own produce, you save on expensive purchases at the store and on the gas to get there.  Then there is the enjoyment factor.  Planting and maintaining your own strawberry, blueberry, blackberry plant, and any other fruit you decide on provides a peaceful escape from the stresses of the day.  Enjoy some time alone or with the family in your fruit garden, knowing how much better everyone in the family will be eating.

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About the Author:
Sandy Winslow is a writer on topics relating to health and wellness. Growing everything from a blackberry plant to strawberries to start a delicious fruit garden.
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We have all used fans before to cool us down. What if these fans provided a cool mist as well? Would that keep you cooler? The answer is yes, up to 30 degrees cooler. A Portable Misting Fan can keep your family and friends cool and comfortable for hours.

This type of Mist Fan capitalizes on the natural phenomenon called flash evaporation. Like all other Misting System, the Portable Misting Fan has a pumping system that sprays out fine water droplets that quickly evaporate to lower the surrounding air temperature. This Misting Fan can be used indoors. However, it is the perfect Outdoor Cooling system for people who enjoy going outdoors during blazing hot summer days.

While you may think your picnic, barbecue, or family gathering is as perfect as it can be, imagine how much the scene could be improved if everyone was not sweltering in the heat, but was instead being cooled down by a Portable Misting System. These Portable Misting Fans even come with an oscillating option, so that large parties can be cooled down by one fan that significantly reduces the temperature.

Gardeners and those who do other outdoor work can also benefit greatly from a portable misting fan. Some Misting Fans come on wheels or on a cart so they are easily moved as you work on your yard or garden. How great would it be to enjoy your hobby without the discomfort of the blazing heat?

These Misting Fans even come in different sizes. 16 inch fans are perfect for small parties, but large parties or gatherings will need a much larger size up to 48 inches. Commercial Misting Fans are the best option for this situation, as they are able to cool down an area ranging up to 1,000 square feet.

For those who enjoy taking outdoor vacations during sweltering summer days, a battery-powered hand-held Misting Fan would be the ultimate gadget. A small, hand-held Misting Fan can be powered by two AA batteries and can give up to 1000 shots of Misting.

With all of these choices available, it is important to keep in mind how you will use the Portable Misting Fan before you purchase it. Please review the following websites to find an large variety of Portable Misting Fans or a Misting Fan Expert.

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About the Author:
The Portable Misting Fan websites are: Portable-mistingfan.com, Portablemistingfan.net, Portablemistfan.com or Portablemisting.com for a wide variety of Misting Fans and Misting Systems for all price ranges. Many people will not require the Commercial Misting Fan. For use at your home, a 24 inch or 30 inch Misting Fan would probably be perfect for your needs.
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Orchid plants are naturally found in tropical areas around the globe. These tropical areas generally receive a tremendous amount of rain.  It can also be very humid in an orchid’s native habitats.  Actually, the ideal humidity level for most orchid plants is between 75% and 80%.

Considering how uncomfortable human beings would be in a room that is kept at 80% humidity, you need to employ other tactics to keep your orchids happy and healthy.  One way to provide a high humidity for your orchids without sweltering yourself is to water your orchids so that they have a constant supply.

Three simple steps to follow

First, place your orchid in a deep saucer containing some pebbles.  Then set your orchid pot on top of the pebbles; then water the pebbles.  Keep the water level below the bottom of the pot. Do not allow the water to touch the orchid pot (so as not to rot the roots).  This establishes an artificial high-humidity climate around your orchids.

Second, make sure you don’t over water your orchids.  Some orchid enthusiasts assume that when the potting material (generally bark) looks dry, the plant needs to be watered. Not so; not when it comes to orchids.  Although the potting bark may appear dry, the bark itself holds moisture.

Third, you’ll soon discover that you really only have to water your orchid plant once a week or once every other week. And do it sparingly.  The best thing you can do is to let the potting bark dry out completely in between watering orchids you grow in your home.

Remember: some species of orchids grow on the trunks and branches of trees. So it is very normal for their roots to dry out before they receive water again.

Also consider that your orchids need to be fed (or fertilized) sparingly as well.  Create a good routine for watering and fertilizing orchids and you will build yourself a guarantee that you will enjoy these exotic plants for a long time.

Establish an environment for your orchids in which they can thrive. This includes giving them proper care: the right amount of potting bark; the proper amount of light; the right amount of water; and regular feeding with the right fertilizer. By understanding how to care for your orchids properly, you will find they are not difficult to grow. In fact they’re just about as easy to grow and care for as they are to enjoy.

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About the Author:
Patianna is a successful entrepreneur with a passion for orchids. An orchid enthusiast for much of her adult life, her goal is to erase the mythological barriers that would hold you back from growing and enjoying orchids in your home or garden because you may think caring for these beautiful plants is too difficult.
 
Get more great information on watering orchids visit Growing Orchids 1-2-3 and be sure to check out the expert orchid care ebook, “Growing Orchids – Easy as 1-2-3.”
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The host plant needs to be just ready to bloom, healthy looking and disease and pest free. The reason why the timing is so important is that, like any other living creature, it has different cycles of growth. A rose will grow roots better when it’s just trying to open its buds. To test this accurately you need to try the rose’s thorns for resistance,

gently push the thorn to its side, if it resists and could easily puncture your skin it won’t root well, if the thorn bends easily this is also not ideal. If the thorn suddenly gives way with a slight pop under a small amount of force it’s at just the right stage to root most successfully.

Now you need to prepare the cutting and its new temporary environment. Use a black plastic container of 4 inches; this will help retain heat and moisture best. Use a potting mix, the different combinations are many, I am blessed with great soil so I only use my own soil with perlite to provide extra drainage, others will use as much as two thirds compost. If you know you have great soil the less additional fertilizer or compost you use the better as the rose will end up a hardier plant and less dependant on supplements.

Fill the container two thirds full, place the cut end of the cutting in the middle and gently fill the container with the rest of the mix whilst standing the cutting upright. Please beware this stage needs delicate handling, the part of the cutting that is responsible for growing secondary roots is called the cambium. It is located between the food and fluid conducting layers of the plant, exposed at the cut end and therefore can be easily damaged so do not just force the cutting in the soil to make the hole.

Now you need to create a greenhouse effect around the cutting, use a plastic bag or plastic bottle, as long as it retains heat and moisture it’s ideal. Mist every couple of days or when the cutting looks dry, this will help it retain water as without any roots it can’t suck any up on its own yet.

Place in bright but shaded sunlight for about two to three weeks, then remove the, ‘greenhouse’. Continue misting regularly for another week, when the roots start growing through the holes ion the bottom it ready to be transferred to its permanent home.

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About the Author:
I’m Mary Longbridge and I’ve been caring for all kinds of roses for longer than my vanity will allow me to admit. To learn more very effective methods about growing roses from cuttings and more; visit http://www.rosestogrow.com. I am a contributing writer and on the website I will be happy to share my knowledge with you
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Starting compost is simply a matter of collecting your kitchen scraps, gathering them into either a compost heap or a compost bin, and letting nature take its course.

But is that really all there is to it?

Well, no. Sometimes the simplest composting methods produce the best results, but unless the conditions are just right your mixture will not turn into the dynamic mass of bacteria, enzymes and fungi necessary to break down plant fibre and turn it into good, friable soil.

There are many different composting methods and these will vary according factors such as climate, situation, and even a particular gardener’s philosophy. But these methods really only fall into two main groups:

Anaerobic compost
Aerobic compost

Anaerobic compost is created in closed containers such as spinning compost drums, composting trenches, sealed pits and garbage bags.

The closed bin retains nitrogen and carbon more efficiently than an open compost heap, but the mixture tends to be more acidic. When you open your composting container the mixture will often be very smelly. If this is the case it’s quite okay. It simply means the compost isn’t ready yet, so leave it a while longer to let the magic happen.

Anaerobic composting is much slower than other methods as the mixture is cooler and will therefore take longer to break down. If you decide to go this way the best time to begin is summer when the heat will speed up the process and your compost will be available more quickly.

Tip: If you have no suitable container, simply leave your vegetable scraps in a black plastic bag in the sun.

Aerobic compost needs air to help it along. Any compost pile or bin without a lid would fall into the aerobic category. When you first create the heap you should add layers of wet and dry material, and then turn it regularly to allow the air to penetrate.

Positioning

Compost needs moisture, heat and oxygen. Keep the compost pile in a spot where you can easily add water if it begins to dry out. The mix should be moist, never too dry or too soggy. The ideal spot to build your compost heap is under a tree where the sun will break through at intervals. Too much sun will dry the heap but too little will keep it wet and soggy.

Making it happen faster

Shredded compost materials break down faster than those left in large pieces, so chop up kitchen scraps and break up any large garden cuttings etc. with a spade or a shredding machine.

You can buy commercial compost activators if you’re really desperate to get the process going, but there are also a few natural additives to help the micro-organisms do their job.

These include:

Layers of comfrey leaves to speed up decomposition and add nutrients.
Chamomile flowers, another natural additive said to speed things up.
Yarrow, also said to help things along.

To increase the nitrogen content, add dry chicken manure or fresh grass clippings. Turn the heap as often as possible to give it extra air.

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About the Author:
Janet Hall likes to promote organic gardening as a way of life. She believes that anyone can grow a good supply of food even with limited space. Visit her site to get started building your own organic garden, or take the free mini-course at Organic Garden Guide to learn more and discover many great resources.
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The host plant needs to be just ready to bloom, healthy looking and disease and pest free. The reason why the timing is so important is that, like any other living creature, it has different cycles of growth. A rose will grow roots better when it’s just trying to open its buds. To test this accurately you need to try the rose’s thorns for resistance,

gently push the thorn to its side, if it resists and could easily puncture your skin it won’t root well, if the thorn bends easily this is also not ideal. If the thorn suddenly gives way with a slight pop under a small amount of force it’s at just the right stage to root most successfully.

Now you need to prepare the cutting and its new temporary environment. Use a black plastic container of 4 inches; this will help retain heat and moisture best. Use a potting mix, the different combinations are many, I am blessed with great soil so I only use my own soil with perlite to provide extra drainage, others will use as much as two thirds compost. If you know you have great soil the less additional fertilizer or compost you use the better as the rose will end up a hardier plant and less dependant on supplements.

Fill the container two thirds full, place the cut end of the cutting in the middle and gently fill the container with the rest of the mix whilst standing the cutting upright. Please beware this stage needs delicate handling, the part of the cutting that is responsible for growing secondary roots is called the cambium. It is located between the food and fluid conducting layers of the plant, exposed at the cut end and therefore can be easily damaged so do not just force the cutting in the soil to make the hole.

Now you need to create a greenhouse effect around the cutting, use a plastic bag or plastic bottle, as long as it retains heat and moisture it’s ideal. Mist every couple of days or when the cutting looks dry, this will help it retain water as without any roots it can’t suck any up on its own yet.

Place in bright but shaded sunlight for about two to three weeks, then remove the, ‘greenhouse’. Continue misting regularly for another week, when the roots start growing through the holes ion the bottom it ready to be transferred to its permanent home.

-
About the Author:
I’m Mary Longbridge and I’ve been caring for all kinds of roses for longer than my vanity will allow me to admit. To learn more very effective information all about growing roses from cuttings and more; visit http://www.rosestogrow.com. I am a contributing writer and on the website I will be happy to share my knowledge with you
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About the Author:
Beside adventure & travel enthusiast tour operator, Khalid Sajjad is an experienced article writer who has written about variety of topics & also working as SEO, SEM Consultant in Pakistan.
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No, the orchid is not sensitive to the colour of the pot, but it is sensitive to the environment that the pot helps sustain. Let me explain. There are several kinds of pots. At a high level there are plastic pots, clay terracotta pots and baskets. It is important that you match the right pot to the needs of your plant.

Many orchids such as the Moth orchid love to have a slightly moist environment to grow in. To support this you will probably want to shoot for the plastic variety. The plastic does not wick the water away and therefore holds moisture in the mix. The mix takes longer to dry out and the process of drying does not happen uniformly. Instead it dries out from the top to the bottom. In this case, you will want to also probably cut some more holes in the bottom and the sides of your plastic pot to enhance the air circulation and to ensure that water does not get trapped. One of the advantages of using a plastic pot is that you can easily reuse it by sterilizing it in a bleach mixture before repotting into it. Popular at this time also is the clear plastic pot. This allows you to keep a good eye on the status of your root system and as well providing the roots with light. Studies have proven that some Orchids actually photosynthesize through their roots. The Phalaenopsis orchid particularly has been known to obtain some of its growing mojo this way.

For those orchids that are more partial to the drier life, the clay pots might be the better choice. Clay pots are, on the whole porous. This means that they wick away the water causing the medium to dry out quicker. The drying process is a much more uniform one. It ensures that the orchid does not to have to adjust to areas that are moister than others in the mix. However, be aware as you pick out your clay pot, that those that are glazed on the inside will not wick water, so please try to stick to the terracotta styles. A great advantage of the clay pot is that it tends to be heavier. Particularly if you are growing your orchid outside, the heavier clay pot will go much further in keeping your orchid plant stable than its lighter plastic cousins. This can be a huge benefit when the breeze that is caressing the leaves of your orchid beauty becomes the wind that knocks it over.

One of the down sides to clay pots is that it is darn-right close to impossible to create additional holes in the pot as needed. The clay medium just doesn’t support it. On the other hand, one of the options is to put gravel in the bottom of the pot to provide an increased surface area for drainage. Also, you will find that you can pick up clay pots that have been specifically made for orchid growing. These have a greater number of holes in the sides and at the bottom of the pot. So if clay is your choice, you don’t need to suffer.

Many of the orchids grown today, like the Phalaenopsis are epiphytes. These orchids hail from the trees and are known as aerial orchids. Their root system has adapted to holding fast onto the tree trunk or branch of its host and to absorbing water and nutrients from the dead bark as well as from the air. These guys love air circulation. For the epiphytes you cannot go far wrong with baskets or net pots. Combined with a coarse planting mix, the epiphytes get a high level of air circulation. These pots also provide the highest level of drainage. The pots can be found constructed of wood (as they have been for centuries) and more recently of wire, however both of these materials suffer decay or rust and need to be replaced frequently. Many orchid lovers have taken to the plastic baskets which are much more resilient. The baskets actually allow the roots of the orchid to hang down from through the holes in some cases where the humidity supports this kind of behaviour.

Whether it be plastic or clay; basket or one of the hybrid varieties such as ‘pots with net baskets’ or ‘pots with bi-level drainage’, take some time to choose your pot carefully. Of course you can always change your mind. However avoid repotting your orchid too often in your effort to choose the right pot. You will be left with a severely disgruntled and unhappy plant. Make sure you research your plant. Overall, remember that you are selecting the pot that best sustains the environment that it will rely upon to flourish.

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About the Author:
For more information on how to pot your orchid and other key aspects of growing orchids, make sure you head to the Online Center for Orchid Gardeners by going to http://www.orchidgardeners.com. There you will have the opportunity to obtain insightful and helpful perspectives on cultivating Orchid species, whatever your preference. See you there!
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Garden fountains can be wall fountains or a pond fountains. Wall fountains that attach to the wall do not take up much space. They therefore preferred for small gardens. You also can have a variety of indoor and outdoor fountains. Pond fountains are large and programmed to perform different patterns of water sprays.

There are various materials used in making garden fountains, which is a popular wood, fiberglass, copper, concrete and porcelain. Ceramic and concrete are considered to be the best. Carved with statues and then provide finished with sandstone fountain adds beauty. You really can customize the fountain exactly what you want.

Choosing the right type of fountain for your garden is an important decision. There are many things to consider, for example, how the mechanical fountain is required to be, the right kind of wirings and tubes to be used and the technical issues are similar.

Garden fountain should be built better in strong, stable and level ground. It is advisable to get professional help so that your fountain can be designed to place the best compliment. Like the existing furniture in your home, garden fountains also require maintenance. Here’s what you need to consider in maintaining your fountain.

– One common problem with the water fountain in the garden is uneven water flow from the garden. This may be due to the water fountain sink. This can be avoided by placing the fountain in the garden strong and leveled land.

– Water can be turned green and dirty. This might be due to irregular cleaning of the water. Algae when formed in water can make the water appear green. In such cases the water in the fountain needs to be replaced.

- Use some animals algae treatment safe for garden fountains.

- Organized and clean the drain water fountain with a brush. You can refill with tap water.

Keep visiting your garden fountain on a regular basis. Care and proper maintenance will add everlasting charm of your garden. Proper planning is the main requirement for installing the garden fountain. You can even refer to various magazines and visiting different sites to get a clear picture of garden fountains type what you need. Both fountains designed and planned to be a source of relaxation and pleasure.

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About the Author:
Vita Merisia originally comes from Indonesia. She has written a lot of articles on Furniture. She has additional information on Teak Outdoor Patio Furniture tips, and Discount Outdoor Furniture guide you may be interested in reading!
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